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Directions - Gallery Display System |
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PLANNING YOUR DISPLAY SYSTEM
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NOTE: For the full display system instruction guide, download this PDF file
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[ Download PDF ]
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This is a very adaptable system which can be fitted to vertical or horizontal surfaces. eg. The top fitting may be fixed to the ceiling and the bottom fitting to the wall or any other combination. |
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The tensioned cables support acrylic holders. These are available to fit A4 or A3 (in either portrait or landscape format) paper or can be made up to suit sizes. It's different to most systems in that the method of tensioning the stainless steel cables uses push button 'grippers' and is simpler and quicker to fit. Similar grippers are used to adjust the height of the acrylic holders on cables. It can be used for window displays (eg Real Estate windows) or wall displays. |
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Installation
It's best to begin by planning your installation, then attaching the grippers that support the acrylic holders. Single Vertical Columns Place acrylic holder top side up  fit two single acrylic fittings with cable grippers to the top of each acrylic as shown with the push button pointing upwards. Tighten grub screws with the Allen key. Then attach two single acrylic fittings without cable grippers to the bottom of each acrylic with the small cable hole facing upwards. Tighten grub screws onto acrylic with the Allen key.
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Multi Row Columns With acrylic holder top side up fit single grippers to the outer edges of the display and double grippers between adjoining acrylic holders. The fittings with the cable grippers attach to the top of the acrylic with the push button pointing upwards and the fittings without the cable grippers are attached to the bottom of the acrylic with the small cable hole pointing upwards. Tighten grubs screw with the Allen key.
Top and bottom cable fittings: The horizontal space between the fittings should be the width of the acrylic holders plus 10mm. Accuracy is important so that the distance between the cables does not vary.
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Unscrew bases of the top and bottom fittings and fix them in place with 20mm 6gauge screws. The fittings with the push-button "grippers" should be at the bottom. |
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For plasterboard we recommend using Wall-mates or similar fittings which fix to the plasterboard rather than the wall studs. (Simpler and quicker) |
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For masonry walls use wall-plugs. Screw the fittings back onto the bases and if surface you are fixing to is vertical, swivel the fitting parallel to the wall. |
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To fit stainless cable first fit the cable not the top fitting. unscrew the bottom tubular section. Feed the end of the cable through the small washer then the spring, then into the bottom casing and through the hole. Then screw the tubular section back in place. |
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Hanging the acrylic holders. Position the top holder (or side by side set of holders) roughly in position and feed the cables one by one into the acrylic fittings. Adjust by pressing the buttons so the acrylic holders are level (a spirit level may help) and at the right height.
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When the acrylic holders are all in position feed cables into the bottom fittings (with the push button grippers) until you have taken up the slack. Then push the cable down into the gripper using pliers. This compresses the spring in the top fitting and tensions the cable. The gripper will only release if you relieve the tension on the cable by pushing down the top button. Leave about 50mm of cable poking out the side hole in the fitting and cut the cable using good quality wire cutters. |
WARNING: If the cables have frayed ends they will not feed successfully into the grippers. "Groom" the ends of the cable so the strands are all sitting neatly together and apply a small amount of super glue. This is important if you need to remove the cable from any of the grippers, then refit them. |
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Traditional Picture Rail System Directions |
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Directions:
- Just feed the stainless steel cable into the hooks as shown then hang the hook on the picture rail.
- The Picture Rail hook is designed so that it positions the cable close to the wall. This stops your art from leaning too far forward.
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Lighting System Directions |
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NOTE: For the full lighting system instruction guide, download this PDF file
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[ Download PDF ]
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Read more...
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Stainless Steel Cable System Directions |
- First feed the wire cable through the track slides as shown.
- Tilt the track slide to insert into the underside of the track.
- Straighten the track slide so it sits level in the track.
- The Hanger is now captive and ready for the hook to be fitted.
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Clear Tape System Directions |
- Pull tape from dispenser pack and cut off required length. Feed tape up through slot in the locking capsule and then back down through the same slot to form a large loop.
IMPORTANT: The short end must be to the front of the capsules as shown or the locking action will fail.
- Swing the locking bar through the loop (A) of the tape as shown and press fully down. Pull long end of tape (B) down to tighten the loop over the locking bar.
- Fit the capsule into the track as shown with the locking bar to the front.
- Fit hook to the tape as shown.
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Push-Button Hook Directions |
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The Push-Button Hooks are for use with Stainless Steel Hangers.
DIRECTIONS: Feed the stainless steel cable into the hole in the top of the hook. Push the button down and the hook will move freely on the cable. The hook grips the cable when the button is released.
RECOMMENDED WEIGHT: 20kg on one hook.
ADHESIVE FOAM PADS: 20 of these are supplied in each pack of hooks. Stick one of these pads near the lower corners at the back of each frame. They help stabilize the frames and keep them straight.
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These Hooks are for use with both Clear Tape Hangers and the Stainless Steel Hangers. |
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DIRECTIONS: Slack off the screw and feed the end of the clear tape (or stainless cable) through the hook body. Slide to the required position and tighten with the key provided.
RECOMMENDED WEIGHT: Clear Tape 15kg per hook. Stainless Cable 20kg per hook. ADHESIVE FOAM PADS: 20 of these are supplied in each pack of hooks. Stick one of these pads near the lower corners at the back of each frame. They help stabilize the frames and keep them straight.
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These Hooks fit both the Clear Tape Hangers and the Stainless Steel Cable Hangers.
DIRECTIONS: Slack off the screw and feed the end of the Clear Tape or Stainless Steel cable through the hook body. Slide to the required position and tighten with the allen key provided.
USING THE SECURITY HOOK
Before hanging the picture turn the locking plate to the open position. After hanging turn the locking plate until it clicks into the locked position.
RECOMMENDED WEIGHTS: Clear tape 15kg per hook . Stainless Steel Cable 20kg per hook.
ADHESIVE FOAM PADS: 20 of these are supplied in each pack of hooks. Stick one of these pads near the lower corners at the back of each frame. They help stabilize the frames and keep them straight.
NOTE: To move the hook up and down on the hanger you back the bolt off only half a turn. If you accidentally unscrew the bolt completely it goes back together in the sequence shown below:-

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Fixing to Plasterboard



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We recommend using plasterboard fittings (see illustration 1). This saves you the trouble of locating the wall studs and means you can pre-drill the track, which saves time. Drill a 4mm hole in the centre of the length of track. Then drill the other holes at 50cm intervals. Decide on the height at which you want the track. IMPORTANT: If you plan to install our lighting system leave 10mm between track and ceiling to allow space to fit the light wand height. Mark with a pencil at intervals measuring down from the ceiling to ensure the track is level. Using the track as a ruler mark with a pencil (see illustration 2). Mark the position of the centre hole on the wall, then tap a small nail into the plasterboard.
If it happens to hit a wall stud, fix the track in place with a 25mm x 8 gauge panhead screw, (see illustration 3) if not, fit a plasterboard fitting.
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Mark the positions of the remaining holes. Remove the track and tap a nail into each marked position to check for studs, then screw in the plasterboard fittings where needed. Screw the track to the wall.
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Fixing to Masonry

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It's often hard to drill holes in masonry accurately as the drill tends to wander off target so we suggest the following: Predrill your track starting with a 5mm hole in the centre of the length of track. Then drill the other holes at 50cm spacing.
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Decide on the height at which you want the track and mark with a pencil (see fixing to plasterboard) using the track as a ruler. Mark the position of the centre hole on the wall. Hold the track firmly in position on the wall and using the centre track hole as a guide, drill a 5mm hole through into the masonry. Drill 1cm deeper than the length of your wall plugs. Remove the track and fit the 5mm wall plug into the holes (see illustration 4). If it won't go full depth the screw allows you to remove the wall plug, redrill and try again. Screw the track temporarily in place then, using the holes in the track as a guide, drill the remaining holes in the masonry. Unscrew the track and insert remaining wall plugs and screw the track to the wall.
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End Caps
End caps give a more finished look where track ends are exposed. Available in white or satin silver colours to match the track.
Screw the track temporarily in place then, using the holes in the track as a guide, drill the remaining holes in the masonry. Unscrew the track and insert remaining wall plugs and screw the track to the wall. |
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Lighting System in Kit Form |
The Gallery Lighting System . . .now in Kit Form
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